Experiencing Frank Gehrys architectural work known as Bilbao

The transition through the streets to the reveal conjures similar emotions to turning the tight corners in Rome and arriving to see the Parthenon, although one is certainly more architect centric.  While I am far more drawn to the feeling of awe Augustus / Hadrian’s Parthenon conjures architecturally, emotionally and historically (except for the church’s destruction of the pagan gods originally displayed within) the Gehry Guggenheim has a similar surprise element and sense of unexpected amazement.  The sheer size and scope of the structure has a feeling of intimidation yet seems to dance with movement.

With so much to take in around you the Jeff Koons “Puppy” piece is a fabulous friend to greet your arrival.  Not only is the life force at odds to a degree with the architectural surroundings alive with vegetation and a persona we grow up loving, but you can’t not smile as it cheerfully and effectively engulfs your presence giving the perfect beginning moments to the whimsical experience you’re about to encounter.

Entering the space I can’t help but continue to focus on the construction of the architectural spaces built in 1997 that while so heavy with extras, the importance of light is so independently critical, as well as use of innovative materials.  The inner core gives a sense of the Guggenheim in New York City, by Frank Lloyd Wright, which James Turrell last made light of, pun intended, and took full advantage of what so many have been critical of in the past. Both spaces, one soft and elegant and the other more arresting have had their suitors and detractors.

The Gehry building doesn’t allow for ease of gallery space as it seems Mr. Gehry has worked to create a sculpture of his own that includes the interior, although the sculptures and paintings inside are so special you begin to soften on your less than glowing feeling of the aggressive space architecturally.

I’m a lover of Richard Serra’s work and the work here is superb.  It seems everything I see of his is consuming.  Every aspect completely draws me in. The scale, the coloration, the balance and lightness is so effective I could walk through or just sit and experience it in the vast gallery space for hours.  Factoring the work with the historic reference of Bilbao and their steel industry makes it even more enriching.

The additional side gallery with video and maquettes of the Serra work was a treat. I would have been satiated with just that exhibit, but to see the exceptional Eduardo Challida exhibit (who was born nearby in San Sebastian) as well as the three painting galleries exhibited with work by Piet Mondrian (a blue and orange landscape which was captivating and different from so much other work of his I have seen it continues to reside in my mind)  Franz Kline, and an assortment of other fabulous works…but the other real treat was the video installation by Icelandic artist Ragnar Kjartansson, The Visitors (2012).  A nine-screen multichannel video documents a musical performance staged at historic Rokeby Farm in upstate New York.  A work most recently seen at the Hirshhorn Museum retrospective in DC.

We left Bilbao having thoroughly enjoyed the experience on multiple levels. I will always look forward to returning.